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Beware
Are you sleepless due to the dripping faucet? Scared of the knocking behind the walls?
Water not quite hot enough?
Sometimes you can know exactly what's wrong with those fixtures, pipes behind
the walls or drain under teh floor.
Click on the topics below to know† "what's going on"?
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Before trying any drain-clearing methods on a plugged drain, check that the tub's pop-up stopper is opening
fully and is free of hair and debris. If the stopper isn't the problem, then the drainpipe is probably clogged.
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First, try a plunger or chemical drain cleaner.
If these fail to do the job, you'll have to clear the trap
with a snake.
Most tubs have a P trap in the drain.
In some homes, the tub may have a drum trap in the floor near the tub instead (it will have a removable metal cover and a
rubber gasket). Using a snake in a tub P trap is much like snaking out a sink trap. If you have a drum trap, first try snaking
it clear through the tub overflow.
If that doesn't work, bailout all the standing water from the tub. Then,
using an adjustable-end wrench, unscrew the trap cover slowly. Have rags ready for any water that wells up. Remove the cover,
bail out and clean the trap. If, after this, water does not well up, snake toward the tub; if water does well up, snake toward
he main drain.
If you can't reach the clog from the trap, it's probably deeper in he main drain. |
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Though it may difficult to unclog a shower
drain with a plunger, it's worth a try.
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If a plunger doesn't do the job, maneuver a snake down the drain opening into the trap.
As a last
resort, you can use a garden hose. Attach the hose to an outdoor
faucet or to an indoor faucet with a threaded adapter. Push the hose deep into the drain and pack rags into the opening. Turning
the water on in short, hard bursts should open the drain.
CAUTION: Never leave a hose in any drain: a sudden drop
in water pressure could siphon sewage back into the fresh water supply. |
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A stopped sink drain isn't just an inconvenience; it can sometimes be an emergency. It's always best
to prevent clogs before they happen. Be alert to the warning signs of a sluggish drain. It's easier to open a drain that's
slowing down than one that's stopped completely.
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Run or pour scalding water down the drain to break up grease buildups.
If hot water doesn't unclog
the drain, there could be some object in the drain.
To check, remove and thoroughly clean the sink pop-up stopper
or strainer.
Determine if the clog is close to the sink by checking the other drains in your home. If more than
one won't clear, something is stuck in the main drain.
The most effective way to clear a clog is with a snake.
You can try using a plunger or a chemical drain. |
Clearing Drains
with a Plunger
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The plunger is a good drain-clearing tool, but it often fails to work because it's incorrectly used.
Don't make the typical mistake of pumping up and down two or three times, expecting the water to whoosh down the drain.
Though no great expertise is needed to use this simple tool, here are a few tips to guide you:
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Choose a plunger with a suction cup large enough to cover the drain opening completely.
Fill the clogged fixture
with enough water to cover the plunger cup.
Coat the rim of the plunger cup with petroleum jelly to ensure a tight seal.
Block off all other outlets (the overflow, second drain in a double sink, adjacent fixtures) with wet rags.
Insert
the plunger into the water at an angle so no air remains trapped under it.
Use 15 to 20 forceful strokes, holding the
plunger upright and pumping vigorously.
Repeat the plunging two or three times before giving up.
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Using Chemical
Drain Cleaners
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Though routine use of chemical drain cleaners to prevent clogs may eventually damage your pipes, these cleaners
can be helpful in opening clogged drains. If water is draining somewhat, but plunging has failed to open the drain completely,
you may want to try using a drain cleaner. Whenever you use chemicals, do so with caution and in a well-ventilated room. Be
sure to take these precautions:
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Never use a plunger if a chemical cleaner is present in the drain; you risk splashing caustic water on yourself.
Wear rubber gloves to prevent the chemical from burning your skin.
Don't use a chemical cleaner if the blockage
is total, especially if the fixture is filled with water. It won't clear the blockage and you'll face another problem-how
to get rid of the caustic water.
Never use a chemical cleaner in a garbage disposal.
Read labels and match cleaners
with clogs. Alkalis cut grease; acids dissolve soap and hair. CAUTION: Don't mix chemicals. Mixing an acid and an alkali cleaner can cause an explosion.
Don't look
down the drain after pouring a chemical. The solution often boils up and gives off toxic fumes. |
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Cleaning Your
Faucet Aerator
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If the flow from your faucet is sluggish, the trouble may be in the faucet aerator. This device, at the tip
of most faucet spouts, mixes air and water for a smooth flow. But minerals or dirt particles in the water often build up on
the screen and disc, blocking the flow. If mineral deposits are to blame or if aerator parts are damaged, it's best to
replace the aerator. If dirt is the problem, follow these steps →
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Unscrew the aerator from the end of the spout.
To loosen stubborn connections, douse them with penetrating oil.
Disassemble and set the parts aside in order.
Clean the screen and disc with a brush and soapy water.
Use a pin
or toothpick to open any clogged holes in the disc.
Flush all the parts with water before putting them back together. |
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In a ball faucet, water flows when openings in the rotating all align with hot and cold water inlets in the
faucet body. |
If water leaks from under the handle, leave the water on and tighten the adjusting ring.
If the leak persists,
turn off the water and replace the carn.
For a dripping spout, replace the inlet seals and springs or the all.
Cure
any leaks around the spout sleeve by replacing the O-rings on the faucet body. |
Leaking Cartridge
Faucets
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A cartridge faucet has a series of holes in the stem-and-cartridge assembly that align to control the mix
and flow of water. Usually, leaks occur because of worn O-rings or a faulty cartridge.
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Look at the O-rings on the faucet body. If they're in good shape, remove the cartridge (look under the spout
sleeve on the outside of the faucet for the retainer clip that holds the cartridge in place).
If the cartridge is worn,
replace it with a duplicate.
Cartridges vary, so read the manufacturer's instructions before installing a new one.
The most common type has a flat side that must face front. Otherwise, the hot and cold water supply will be reversed.
Be
sure to fit the retainer clip snugly into its slot.
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Leaking Compression
Faucets
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If your faucet has separate hot and cold water handles, it's probably a compression faucet (also called
a stem or washer faucet). In this faucet, a rubber seat washer is secured to the stem, which has very coarse threads on the
outside. When you turn the handle to shut off the faucet, the stem is screwed down, compressing the washer against the valve
seat in the faucet body. The stem is secured by a packing nut, which compresses the packing (twine, a washer, or an O-ring)
and prevents water from leaking around the stem.
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If water leaks around the handle, tighten the packing nut. If that fails, replace the packing.
If the faucet
leaks from the spout, either a washer is defective or a valve seat is badly corroded.
To find out which side needs work,
turn off the shutoff valves one at a time; the leak will stop when one or the other is turned off.
Take off the handle,
remove the stem, and either replace the washer or replace or recondition the valve seat.
Professional Tip
Before doing any work, turn off the water at the fixture shutoff valves or at the main shutoff valve. Open the faucet to
drain the pipes. |
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A valve faucet has a valve assembly on each side (one for hot water, one for cold) through which water flows
up and out the spout. Moving the handle from side to side controls the mix, moving forward and backward controls the flow.
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The main problems you may encounter with a valve faucet are spout leaks, loose handle assemblies, and sluggish flow
A leak at the base of the spout may be due to a faulty spout O-ring.
If the spout drips, you may need to replace one
or more of the valve assembly parts.
If the handle is loose, a simple adjustment to the handle screw or carn assembly
at the back of the faucet can remedy it.
If sluggish flow is the problem, the strainers or aerator may be clogged with
sediment and need cleaning.
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Replacing the
Packing and Washer
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Tips for replacing the packing and washer. |
To replace the worn packing either remove the O-ring o packing washer and slide on an exact duplicate, or scrape
off the twine and wrap new twine clockwise around the stem.
To replace a cracked or worn seat washer, remove the
screw and washer; install a duplicate washer. If the threads are too worn to hold a screw, snap in a swivel washer. |
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The first step in fixing a leaking or sluggish faucet is identifying which of the two basic types of faucets
you're dealing with. |
Compression Faucet - Older design with two handles and one.
Washerless Faucet - More recent design, usually
with a single lever or knob that controls the flow and mix of hot and cold water by aligning interior openings with the water
inlets. These faucets may be one of several type: disc, valve, ball, or cartridge. Because models vary with the manufacturer,
it's important to get identical replacement parts.
Professional Tips
When you're
taking the faucet apart, douse stubborn connections with penetrating oil before trying to loosen them with a wrench. Tape-wrap
the wrench's jaws to prevent marring visible parts of the fixture.
Before starting any faucet repair, plug
the sink so small parts can't fall down the drain.
Line the sink with a towel to prevent damage from tools
or parts accidentally dropped.
As you disassemble the faucet, line up the pieces in the order that you remove them
so you can put them back together properly.
CAUTION: Before you work on a faucet, turn off the water at the fixture
shutoff valves or the main shutoff valve and open the faucet to drain the pipes.
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Tips on taking the faucet apart. |
With the handle removed, lift off the stem and packing nuts by turning the nuts counterclockwise with an adjustable-end
wrench or a pair of rib-joint pliers. (Be careful not to strip the nuts).
Unscrew the stem, lifting it straight
out of the faucet body.
Examine the threads.
If they're damaged or worn, replace the stem; if not, check
the packing for wear. |
Working On
the Valve Seat
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Tips to working on valve seat. |
To replace a removable valve seat that's pitted or corroded, insert a seat wrench into the valve seat and turn
it counterclockwise until the seat lifts out. The new valve seat should be an exact duplicate. Coat the threads of the new
seat with pipe joint compound before installing it.
To recondition a non-removable valve seat, grind down its burrs
with a seat dresser, an inexpensive tool you can buy from a plumbing supply dealer. Insert and turn clockwise once or twice
until the seat is smooth; remove metal filings with a damp cloth. |
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A faucet that won't yield water is the first sign of frozen pipes. If a severe cold snap hits, prevent
freezing and subsequent bursting of pipes by following the suggestions below. Even if the pipes do freeze, you can thaw them
before they burst if you act quickly. When temperatures fall very low, here's how to keep your pipes from freezing →
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Keep a trickle of water running from the faucets.
Beam a heat lamp or small heater at exposed pipes.
Wrap
uninsulated pipes with newspapers, heating wires, foam, or self-adhesive insulating tape.
Keep doors ajar between heated
and unheated rooms.
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Shut off the water at the main shutoff valve and open the faucet nearest to the frozen pipe so it can drain as it
thaws.
Waterproof the area with containers and plastic drop clothes in case leaks occur.
Use one of the following
methods to gradually warm the frozen pipe. Be sure to work from the faucet toward the iced-up area.
Propane Torch With
a flame-spreading-nozzle, the torch will quickly thaw a frozen pipe.
Safety Tip Shield flammable areas with a fireproof
sheet, don't let the pipe get too hot to touch.
Hair Dryer Used like the torch, a dryer will gently defrost the pipe.
Heating Pad Wrap a length of pipe with a heating pad.
Heat Lamp For pipes behind walls, floors, or ceilings, beam a
heat lamp 8 or more inches from the surface.
Hot Water If no other method is available, wrap the pipe (except plastic)
in rags and pour boiling water on it.
Professional Tip
When loosening frozen connections,
instead of using a wrench to force nuts and couplings frozen in place, douse the connection with penetrating oil. Wait half
an hour; then loosen with a wrench. |
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A higher than normal water bill might be your first indication of a leaking pipe. Or you might hear the sound of
running water even when all your fixtures are turned off. When you suspect a leak, check the fixtures first to make sure all
the faucets are tightly closed. Then go to the water meter, if you have one. If the dial is moving, you're losing water
somewhere in the system. |
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Try these tips to locate a leak. |
The sound of running water helps. If you hear it, follow it to its source. You can buy a listening device that amplifies
sounds when it's held up to a pipe.
If water is staining the ceiling or dripping down, the leak is probably directly
above.
Occasionally, water may travel along a joist and then stain or drip at a point some distance from the leak.
If water stains a wall, it means there's a leak in a section of pipe.
Any wall stain is likely to be below the
actual location of the leak and you'll probably need to remove part of the wall to find it.
Without the sound of
running water and without drips or stains as evidence, leaks are more difficult to find. Using a flashlight, check all the
pipes in the basement or in the crawl space. |
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If the leak is major, turn off the water immediately, either at the fixture shutoff valve or the main shutoff
valve. You'll probably have to replace the leaky section of pipe. If your experience working with pipes is limited, you'll
probably want to call in a plumber to do the job. If the leak is small, the ultimate solution is to replace the pipe, but
there are temporary solutions until you have time for the replacement job. These methods work for small leaks only. |
Clamps should stop most leaks for several months if they're used with a solid rubber blanket. It's a good
idea to buy a sheet of rubber, as well as some clamps sized to fit your pipes at a hardware store and keep them on hand just
for this purpose.
A sleeve clamp that exactly fits the pipe diameter works best. Wrap a rubber blanket over the leak,
then screw the clamp down over the blanket.
An adjustable hose clamp used with a rubber blanket stops a pinhole leak.
If nothing else is at hand, use a C-clamp, a small block of wood and a rubber blanket.
In a pinch, try applying epoxy
putty around a joint where a clamp won't work. The pipe must be dry for the putty to adhere. Turn off the water supply
to the leak and leave the water off until the putty hardens completely on the pipe.
If you don't have a clamp or
putty, you can still stop a small leak temporarily by plugging it with a pencil point. |
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Pipe noises range from loud hammering sounds to high-pitched squeaks. The causes may be loose pipes, water
logged air chambers, or water pressure that's too high. |
Anchoring exposed pipes is a simple solution;
other remedies such as anchoring pipes concealed inside walls, floors or ceilings, may call for a professional.
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Pipes are usually anchored with pipe straps every 6 to 8 feet for horizontal runs, 8 to 10 feet for vertical. |
If your pipes bang when you turn on the water,
you may need to add straps, cushion the pipes with a rubber blanket, or both.
When you anchor a pipe-especially a plastic one-leave room for expansion.
Don't use galvanized straps on copper pipes. |
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Only hot water pipes squeak. As the pipe expands, it moves in its strap, and friction causes the squeak. |
Cushion it as you would a banging pipe.
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This noise occurs when you turn off the water at a faucet or an appliance quickly. The water flowing through
the pipes slams to a stop, causing a hammering noise. |
Check for loose pipes and anchor them.
Check for faulty air chambers.
These lengths of pipe, installed behind fixtures and appliances, hold air that cushions the shock when flowing water is shut
off. They can get filled with water and lose their effectiveness. To
restore air to the chambers, turn off the water at the main shutoff valve. Open all the faucets to drain the system. Close
the faucets and turn the water on again. The air chambers should fill with air.
Check for water pressure that's above 80 psi (pounds per square inch). To lower the pressure, install a pressure-reducing valve (you can call in a plumber to do the work if this is a job
you don't want to do yourself). |
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In a plumbing emergency, you'll need to stop the flow of water quickly. To do this, you and each member
of your family needs to know the location of the shutoff valve for every fixture and appliance, as well as the main shutoff
valve for the house, and how they operate. |
If the emergency involves a specific fixture
or appliance, first look for its shutoff valve and turn it clockwise to shut off the water to that fixture or appliance only.
The valve is usually located underneath a fixture such as a sink or a toilet, or behind an appliance, such as a clothes
washer, at the point where the water supply pipe (or pipes) connects to it.
If the problem is not with a particular fixture
or appliance, or if there's no shutoff valve for the fixture or appliance, use the main shutoff valve to turn off the
water supply to the entire house.
You'll find the main shutoff valve on the inside or outside of your house where
the main water supply pipe enters.
In cold climates, look just inside the foundation wall in the basement or crawl space.
Turn the valve clockwise to shut it off.
Professional Tip If you need a wrench to turn the valve, keep one, specially
labeled near the valve so it's handy.
If the main shutoff valve itself is defective and needs to be repaired, call
your water company; they can send someone out with the special tool that's required to shut off the water at the street
before it reaches the valve. |
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For a leaking or broken pipe → |
Turn off the main shutoff valve to prevent water
damage.
Make temporary repairs to stop the leak.
The pipe will have to be replaced as soon as it's convenient
to do so.
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Shut off any faucet or appliance (such as dishwasher) that's draining into the sink.
Unclog the sink using
a plunger or snake.
DON'T use a chemical drain cleaner if the blockage is total.
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A Faucet That
Won't Shut Off
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In case a faucet won't shut-off → |
Immediately turn off the water at the fixture shutoff valve underneath the sink.
If there's no valve there,
turn off the main shutoff valve.
Repair the faucet or, if necessary, replace it.
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A Steaming
Hot Water Faucet
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To relieve the hot water heater → |
Open all the hot water faucets to relieve
the overheated hot water heater.
Turn off the gas or electric supply to the heater.
Let the faucets run until cold
water flows from them (this indicates the water in the heater is no longer overheated).
Close them.
Call in a professional
to make any necessary repairs to the heater's thermostat and pressure relief valve. |
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No plumbing problem is more common or more frustrating than a clogged drain. Kitchen sink drains clog most
often because of a buildup of grease that traps food particles.
Hair and soap are often at fault in bathroom drains.
Drains can usually be cleared easily and inexpensively, but taking some simple precautions will help you avoid stop-ups.
Proper disposal of kitchen waste will keep sink drain clogs to a minimum. |
Don't pour grease down the kitchen sink.
Don't wash coffee grounds down the sink. Throw them out.
Be sparing with chemical cleaners, particularly if you
have brass, steel, or cast-iron traps and drainpipes; some caustic chemicals can corrode metal pipes.
If used no more
than once every few months, cleaners containing sodium hydroxide or sodium nitrate can be safe and effective.
Clean floor
drain strainers. Some tubs, showers, and basement floor drains have strainers that are screwed into the drain opening. You
can easily remove these strainers and reach down into the drain with a bent wire to clear out accumulated debris. And be sure
to scrub the strainer.
Clean pop-up stoppers in the bathroom sink and the tub regularly. Lift out sink pop-ups once a
week and rinse them off.
Every few months, remove the overflow plate on a tub and pull up the pop-up assembly to reach
the spring or rocker arm. Remove accumulated hair and rinse thoroughly.
Keep the sewer pipes from the house free of tree
roots that may invade them. If roots are a particular problem in your yard, you may need to call in professionals once a year
or so to clear the pipes. They'll use an electric auger to cut out the roots.
Flush the drain-waste and vent systems
whenever you go up onto your house roof to clean out downspouts or gutters. Run water from a garden hose into all vents, giving
them a minute or two of full flow. |
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In case the shower head leak → |
If your shower head leaks where it meets the
arm, you probably need to replace the washer. To reach it, loosen the collar, using tape-wrapped rib-joint pliers. Unscrew
the head from the adjusting ring.
Erratic or weak pressure usually indicates mineral buildup. To restore proper flow,
clean outlet holes with a pin or unscrew a perforated face plate and soak it overnight in vinegar, then scrub it clean.
If the shower head pivots stiffly, check he washer for wear and coat the swivel ball with petroleum jelly before reassembling. |
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A kitchen sink spray has a spray head attached to a hose, which is connected to a diverter valve in the faucet
body. When you squeeze the spray head handle, the diverter valve reroutes water from the faucet to the spray head hose. |
If the flow is sluggish, make sure the hose
isn't kinked.
Clean the aerator in the spray nozzle.
Continued sluggishness may indicate diverter valve problems.
Clean the valve or replace it.
If the spray head leaks, remove it from the hose and replace the washer.
For a
leak at the faucet end of the hose, tighten the hose coupling.
If the hose itself leaks, it's probably cracked. Replace
it. |
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Before you even read this section, you must be aware of how the toilet works. |
Two assemblies are concealed under the lid of a toilet tank; a ball cock assembly, which regulates the filling of
he tank, and a flush valve assembly, which controls the flow of water from the tank to the bowl. When someone presses the
flush handle, the trip lever raises the lift wires (or chain) connected to the tank stopper. As the stopper goes up, water
rushes through the valve seat into the bowl via the flush passages. The water in the bowl yields to gravity and is siphoned
out the trap.
Once the tank
empties, the stopper drops into the flush valve seat. The float ball trips the ball cock assembly to let a new supply of water
into the tank through the tank fill tube. As the tank water level rises, the float ball rises until it gets high enough to
shut off the flow of water. If the water fails to shut off, the overflow tube carries water down into the bowl to prevent
an overflow.
Professional Tips
When loosening connections, avoid slipping with a wrench and
cracking the fixture by dousing stubborn connections with penetrating oil.
When trying to detect a tank leak, add
food coloring to the tank water if you can't tell whether your toilet is leaking around the tank bolts or just sweating.
Wait an hour; then touch the bolt tips and nuts under the tank with white tissue. If the tissue shows coloring, you have a
leak; otherwise, it's condensation.
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To fix a clogged toilet → |
Check for blockage in drain.
Remove blockage with plunger or closet auger. |
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If your toilet is flushing inadequately → |
Check for faulty linkage between handle and trip lever, tank stopper closes before tank empties, leak between tank
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